Since the only way to convey the motifs they carve out of gold is through symbolism, jewelry makers are understandably superstitious.
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Animals have long been popular, and when worn as fortunate charms, they were historically thought to bestow onto their users traits related to the animals. Occasionally, the origin of a brand might be linked to the history of the animal or its significance during a particular stage in the founder’s life.
Chanel
In Venice, a lion with wings prowls. The monster is everywhere in the city, watching over buildings, perched atop columns, and raising its head on stone walls. It can be enormous, little, scary, or amusing at any one time.
When Gabrielle Chanel arrived in Venice in 1920, distraught and trying to get over the loss of her boyfriend, Arthur Capel, the city’s menacing symbol ended up becoming an unusual ally. The mademoiselle, who had always been quite superstitious, couldn’t help but notice the coincidence that the animal representing her star sign, Leo, was also the mythological defender of the city. The gifted designer soon started to use the lion as a symbol to remind her of her own power and independence. Chanel still finds inspiration in the magnificent animal today, particularly for its Sous le Signe du Lion line.
Boucheron
Boucheron owns a zoo called the Animaux De Collection, where a parrot swings from ears, a chameleon wraps its tail around fingers, and a leopard dances on hands rather than pacing in cages. The more than 20 creatures in Boucheron’s whole menagerie are drawn from the company’s own collections and a variety of cultural allusions that served as inspiration for the designers. But they do have one thing in common.
have one thing in common: each represents good fortune and shielding the wearer.
Out of all the creatures, the peacock is the one that the queen values the most. The bird, whose exquisite plumage is dotted with “a hundred eyes,” is said to enchant everyone who wears it and is a symbol of wealth and serenity. The Plume de Paon necklace, designed by the brand’s creator, Frédéric Boucheron, was inspired by a peacock feather and was the first item with a peacock motif, dating back to the late 1800s. Eventually, on a trip to Paris in 1883, Grand Duke Alexei of Russia bought the painting for his lover Alexandra Zhukovskaya.
Chaumet
Chaumet would have had a very different animal mascot if Napoleon Bonaparte had had his eyes examined.
When picking an animal to represent his sovereignty as France’s new emperor in 1804, Napoleon took his cue from his predecessor and personal idol, Emperor Charlemagne. Napoleon mistakenly believed that cicadas were bees, but Charlemagne preferred them.
Still, it was a joyful accident. The bee is a sign of industry and order in traditional symbology, two things that Napoleon was eager to be connected to. The bug decorated his coronation dress, coat of arms, and even personal belongings like his snuff boxes during his reign.
Marie-Étienne Nitot, the creator of Chaumet and the emperor’s official jeweler, quickly discovered that she was frequently including bees into her designs for Bonaparte. Even now, the bug is still important to the company; Bee My Love has a whole collection devoted to it.
Cartier
While Jeanne Toussaint was known to Cartier staff as the director of jewelry, she was much more to the Parisian fashion elite in the mid-1900s. She was a trailblazer and innovator who is recognized for bringing jewelry into the present era. Those close to her called her “Panther” because of her elegance and independence.
Whether the moniker accurately reflected or dictated her tastes, Toussaint had a thing for huge beasts. Two of her favorite items were an onyx panther-decorated cigarette case and a coat made of tigers’ fur. Her creations are a reflection of her passion for cats, particularly panthers.